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Kawakubo designed the main line throughout the late 1990s
designed by founder Ann Demeulemeester
in which austerity and decoration were held in deliberate tension
The season sits within Prada's late-1990s 'ugly chic' period
body-skimming jersey and cotton in a characteristically muted tonal palette of black
Céline by Phoebe Philo 2012SS Trousers Kawakubo designed the main lineTrousers from Cline's Spring Summer 2012 collection, designed by Phoebe Philo, who held the creative directorship from 2008 to 2018. This season sat within the early phase of her tenure, when the house's vocabulary of architectural tailoring and neutral palettes was established. The work prioritised cut and proportion over ornament.
